徐冰的設計理念（二）

我其實對於純藝術之外的領域很感興趣。這次設計的這個首飾呢，還是從我比較慣用的文字材料入手。我是用我的英文方塊字的方法，用Emily Dickinson的一句詩，“我們輸，因為我們贏”。我比較喜歡這個詩句本身的含義，很有哲理，而且有一種內心強大，豁達的感覺。

因為我比較喜歡Emily Dickinson，這個詩句的意思，很適合於貴重的裝飾物。因為這種裝飾物都用於女性，對於女性來說，我覺得她和這個世界的關係都被這句詩充分地表達了。她并不是很固執，很極端或是很敵意地對待這個世界，實際上是很積極地，能夠“放下”而且很有清醒地面對世界和自己的問題及與這個世界的關係。

這個詩句本身有這個內容和感覺，當然是從我個人的角度看到的。Emily Dickinson這個人本身具有很強的傳奇色彩，她是十八世紀的一位詩人，30多歲就開始閉關，就是自己不大出門和外界接觸，是一種主動地隔絕。她是一個成熟女性，但是她的情感非常強烈而且敏感。這為她也增添了幾分疑義和傳奇的味道。她被女性所尊重，因為她的詩和她的生活很能代表女性的世界，傳達了一般的，女性內在精神性的東西。

這個首飾的設計和造型，我是強調幾個文字組合在一起的單純、時尚和當代的感覺。它的主體本身是單純的，掛鏈那一部分卻非常華麗，采用貴重的材料且繁瑣。這構成了一種張力。

文字的設計，我采用的是非常鋒利的字體和造型，基本上是在宋體字基礎上的加工。宋體也稱為“官體”這與女性自古以來對建功立業的想象有某種暗喻。我認為，女性真正的內心是非常鋒利的。實際上她們對人、身體、性和生命的意識非常敏感和尖銳。特別是成功、富有和經歷成熟的女性，帶有非常自信和強悍的表像。像這樣的一種設計，我覺得是符合這一類人群的。

我覺得傳統的首飾設計，都比較柔美，比較強調富有、華麗和斑斕。女性喜歡漂亮的東西，這只是一種生理表象和社會意識。比如像古代女性繪畫，畫有很多的花啊侍女，風景。因為女性下意識里爲了迎合這個社會對她們的認定，要表現自己非常賢惠、柔美。但事實上女性的內心是很波瀾、鋒利的，而且她們的直覺非常的尖銳。我想這個設計主要是出於這樣的一種考慮，代她們的意識和身體內部說話。

這個設計它有幾個層面：

首先，造型上有反常性，引起人們的興趣。另外它很鋒利。它和人身體的接觸，多少帶有一種抵觸，并不阿諛順從；另外，它會給人一種非常當代“硬邊”的感覺。

別人看到，首先會以為它是一個圖案。再仔細看，會發現這是文字。中國人、西方人都會以為它是中文，但是當你去試著閱讀候，漢語言文化圈的人，如果他不懂英文，倒讀不了。但英語文化圈的人試著閱讀的時候，反而可以讀出內容，他們發現這是有內容的英文。

另外，了解詩歌的人會發現這是來自Emily Dickinson的一句詩。所以這個飾物有層層深入的作用。因為一個飾物，事實上不是像在美術館看一個作品那樣，只用一分鐘的時間。一件飾物如果跟著一個人的話，也許會跟一輩子，或很長時間。它需要有一種把玩性，所以它必須有很豐富的內涵，才會被主人喜愛。

I am, in fact, very interested in other areas outside of fine art. Again, I started my design of the jewel with the usual text as my material. I borrowed the verse “We lose because we win” from Emily Dickinson and combined it with the form of square letters. I like this verse for its philosophical touch and the sense of power and generosity that it evokes.

I like Emily Dickenson and her poems. The verse that I chose is particularly suitable for precious gems, for women are the biggest consumers of jewelry, and this sentence well expresses the relationship between the women and the world around her. She is not obstinate, radical or hostile in her approach. Instead, she shows a positive attitude, and is forgiving and rational in handling her problems and relationships. This, of course, is only my understanding.

Emily Dickinson, a female poet in the 18th century, is a legendary figure. At the age of thirty, she voluntarily cut off all external connections to society and retrieved into isolation. She is intellectually mature, emotionally charged and sensitive. These attributes promoted the myth of her character even further. Her poems accurately conveyed the woman’s world and reflected her spirituality, and for this reason, she had many female advocates.

The design of the jewel is a combination of letter that emphasizes simplicity and vogue in a contemporary context. The staple part of the necklace is minimal, while the chain, made of precious material, is impressively complex. Tension is obtained through this contrast.

The design of the characters is derived from the “Song”, with alterations towards a sharper form. “Song”, also known as “official type”, is an insinuation of woman’s enduring desire to pursue ambition. I’ve always thought that women are in fact internally acute. They are sharp and sensitive towards people, body, sex and life. The successful, wealthy and more experienced women are especially self-confident and strong-minded. I believe my design to be suitable for such women.

I think traditional jewelry design stresses more on exhibiting wealth, splendor and variety in color. The universal truth is women like beautiful things, yet this is based on women’s outward appearance and what society demands of them. For instance, to cater to the likes and dislikes of men, women of the classic era were often painted in a surrounding of flowers, maids and scenery. This was to portray their gentle and beautiful nature. But women are in fact sharp and sensitive. I think my design plays the role of spokesperson for the inner-conscious of such women.

The design features the following aspects:

Firstly, its unique shape is very attractive.

Secondly, it is very sharp, and to some extent, resists contact with the human body, refusing to submit.

Thirdly, it is a modern “hard edge” design.

At first glance, you see only pattern. Further observation leads you to believe that the “pattern” is actually text. Both Chinese and western observers might take the characters to be Chinese. But Chinese who have no knowledge of English are unable to decipher the writing, whereas an English speaker can understand it very well.

Moreover, those who have knowledge in poems will find that the text is a verse from Emily Dickinson. Therefore, this jewel that carries the letters goes deeper in meaning. Jewelry is not like art in a museum, one only lingers in front of an artwork for but a minute, but jewelry may become a person’s lifelong companion, which is why it should be designed with care.